The drag mechanism on your reel is designed to allow line to peel off from your spool before the weight or fight of a fish causes it to break. A result of this is that very large fish can be subdued on comparatively light line.
The best setting for your drag is to adjust it to one third of the breaking strain of the line in use. To do this, tie the end of your line to the hook on a set of pocket scales or a spring balance. Have someone hold the scales steady while you walk slowly away from them, pointing the rod tip directly at the scales. The measurement obtained is the drag straight off the reel, without any interference from friction over runners, sinker or the water. Adjust the drag until the scales read roughly one third of the breaking strain of you line.
Imagine if you are fishing from the rocks. You are casting a lure on your 10 kg spinning outfit, when suddenly a huge 30 kg fish takes your lure. The fish's immediate reaction is to bolt. With only 3 kg of drag set on your reel (1/3 of the breaking strain of your line), the best thing you can do is to keep the rod tip low and let the line run. The pressure of the hook in the fish's mouth, taking into account the friction and water drag, could be as close to 7 kg, and there is no way that the fish will go too far with the equivalent of 2 house bricks hanging from its jaw. Chances are that the fish will slow down or stop after a run of about 200 m. Most spools, dependant on the thickness of the monofilament that's been reeled on, can hold up to 270 m of line.
As soon as the run stops, get that rod tip up high and put the pressure on. Your job now is to turn the fish's head and begin pumping it in. With the pressure exerted by the rod, you'll be pulling as much as an extra 3 to 4 kg at the top of each pumping stroke. The pump stroke is basically that of pulling on the line on the up-stroke, and reeling the line in on the down-stroke.
Should the fish suddenly bolt again, drop your rod immediately and point the tip of the rod straight down at the fish. If you keep it high, you'll most probably break your line.
After 25 minutes of hard work, you have the fish just 30 m away from the rocks, but now its just hanging there, deep in the water, using the backwash against its flanks to resist your efforts. Every time you pump, line just slips off against the drag and you gain nothing. This is where most anglers make a fatal mistake, by cranking on more drag to haul in the fish. Instead, use your hand against the reel to physically add more pressure on each lifting stroke of your rod. This way, if the fish does really bolt again, your safe knowing that the drag settings are still set right. By altering the angle of the rod and by manually overriding the reel, you've been able to constantly adjust the pressure on the fish, without fiddling with the drag.
In nine out of ten times, you'll be able to land your fish without altering the drag from one third the breaking strain of the line. The only big exception to the rule is a fish taking a great deal of your line, ie more than half of your spool. Due to the basic laws of physics, by the time your reel is half empty of line, the drag has effectively doubled. Therefore, if a big fish runs off more than half your line, it pays to ease off the drag if you want to bring it home. Only when you are down to the last 20-30 metres of line, should you go for broke. Don't tighten the drag to much, but use your palm or finger pressure to try and stop the run. If you have only a few turns of line left on the reel, then should you lock the drag completely. With luck, the fish will stop well short of spooling you. Then it's a long haul bringing in the fish that hopefully wont get away !
Remember, that your line is fatiguing and that a small hook may be straightening slowly during the battle. You should actually be decreasing the pressure as time goes by. A dangerous moment in any battle is the first time the fisherman sees the fish. No matter how tired (or dead) the fish looks, back your drag off slightly when it comes into view. The shorter length of line you are now working with has less elasticity and less room for error. Always be prepared for a last minute burst of action from the fish.
You might be lulled into the belief that the fish has given up the fight and is ready to pack it in. This illusion will be dispelled when the fish comes into view, as it approaches the surface. Usually, the fish will panic, so be ready for the run that follows. You must keep up the pressure on the fish at all times. This will tire it out, and force it to go back along the pull of the line, towards you. (by FishSA)
Tool : Drag Checker
The best setting for your drag is to adjust it to one third of the breaking strain of the line in use. To do this, tie the end of your line to the hook on a set of pocket scales or a spring balance. Have someone hold the scales steady while you walk slowly away from them, pointing the rod tip directly at the scales. The measurement obtained is the drag straight off the reel, without any interference from friction over runners, sinker or the water. Adjust the drag until the scales read roughly one third of the breaking strain of you line.
Imagine if you are fishing from the rocks. You are casting a lure on your 10 kg spinning outfit, when suddenly a huge 30 kg fish takes your lure. The fish's immediate reaction is to bolt. With only 3 kg of drag set on your reel (1/3 of the breaking strain of your line), the best thing you can do is to keep the rod tip low and let the line run. The pressure of the hook in the fish's mouth, taking into account the friction and water drag, could be as close to 7 kg, and there is no way that the fish will go too far with the equivalent of 2 house bricks hanging from its jaw. Chances are that the fish will slow down or stop after a run of about 200 m. Most spools, dependant on the thickness of the monofilament that's been reeled on, can hold up to 270 m of line.
As soon as the run stops, get that rod tip up high and put the pressure on. Your job now is to turn the fish's head and begin pumping it in. With the pressure exerted by the rod, you'll be pulling as much as an extra 3 to 4 kg at the top of each pumping stroke. The pump stroke is basically that of pulling on the line on the up-stroke, and reeling the line in on the down-stroke.
Should the fish suddenly bolt again, drop your rod immediately and point the tip of the rod straight down at the fish. If you keep it high, you'll most probably break your line.
After 25 minutes of hard work, you have the fish just 30 m away from the rocks, but now its just hanging there, deep in the water, using the backwash against its flanks to resist your efforts. Every time you pump, line just slips off against the drag and you gain nothing. This is where most anglers make a fatal mistake, by cranking on more drag to haul in the fish. Instead, use your hand against the reel to physically add more pressure on each lifting stroke of your rod. This way, if the fish does really bolt again, your safe knowing that the drag settings are still set right. By altering the angle of the rod and by manually overriding the reel, you've been able to constantly adjust the pressure on the fish, without fiddling with the drag.
In nine out of ten times, you'll be able to land your fish without altering the drag from one third the breaking strain of the line. The only big exception to the rule is a fish taking a great deal of your line, ie more than half of your spool. Due to the basic laws of physics, by the time your reel is half empty of line, the drag has effectively doubled. Therefore, if a big fish runs off more than half your line, it pays to ease off the drag if you want to bring it home. Only when you are down to the last 20-30 metres of line, should you go for broke. Don't tighten the drag to much, but use your palm or finger pressure to try and stop the run. If you have only a few turns of line left on the reel, then should you lock the drag completely. With luck, the fish will stop well short of spooling you. Then it's a long haul bringing in the fish that hopefully wont get away !
Remember, that your line is fatiguing and that a small hook may be straightening slowly during the battle. You should actually be decreasing the pressure as time goes by. A dangerous moment in any battle is the first time the fisherman sees the fish. No matter how tired (or dead) the fish looks, back your drag off slightly when it comes into view. The shorter length of line you are now working with has less elasticity and less room for error. Always be prepared for a last minute burst of action from the fish.
You might be lulled into the belief that the fish has given up the fight and is ready to pack it in. This illusion will be dispelled when the fish comes into view, as it approaches the surface. Usually, the fish will panic, so be ready for the run that follows. You must keep up the pressure on the fish at all times. This will tire it out, and force it to go back along the pull of the line, towards you. (by FishSA)
Tool : Drag Checker
image from PLAT
How to Use Drag Checker
What is drag checker?
::Traditionally, we generally put a rod spring balance on the tip of the rod to setup the drag or check the rod deflection load. With this method, a second person was needed to read the scale because the position of the balance is too far from the person holding the rod. Drag setup is especially hard to calculate, and is frequently based on experience of the fisherman and his best instincts.
::The drag checker has made drag measurements possible with the reel and rig set on the fishing rod close to your hands without any line modifications. The drag checker has a night line function that memorizes the measurement value, making it possible for one-man to measure tension and rod deflection load. The drag checker has full functionality to sufficiently obtain the performance of a rod, reel and line.
image from PLAT
(1)Drag Measurement
As you know drag prevents the fish from cutting the string. The drag checker makes the drag setup easy and quick.
How to measure
1. Bridge the line from the reel as shown in the picture.
2. Pull the string slowly, straight toward the arrow.
3. Read the needle
* at the start of drag.
* Measurement is easy because the orange needle display remains even after releasing the tension.
As you know drag prevents the fish from cutting the string. The drag checker makes the drag setup easy and quick.
How to measure
1. Bridge the line from the reel as shown in the picture.
2. Pull the string slowly, straight toward the arrow.
3. Read the needle
* at the start of drag.
* Measurement is easy because the orange needle display remains even after releasing the tension.
image from PLAT
(2)Rod Deflection Measurement
This measurement helps you understand how much deflection the rod will have for the amount of given force.
How to measure
1. Set the tackle. Then fix the tip of the line.
2. Install the anti-deflection wire on the main body.
3. Set the drag checker at this position.
4. Bend the rod to the desired deflection to measure.
5. Check the measurement value.
* Be aware that the values change depending on the angle of the rod. When you measure the drag by fixing the drag checker on the line from the rod, the measurement value will differ from the measurement in front of the reel. Be sure to make comparisons.
Info for Malaysian Anglers base on my experiences and my mate experiences during fishing with me.
Sedikit penerangan mengenai kefahaman saya dalam menentukan drag setting bagi peralatan-peralatan sedia ada saya. Yang UTAMA sekali, saya perlu untuk mengetahui kemampuan Rod. Kenapa Rod yang paling saya utamakan, kenapa tidak reel@line ?
Seperti yang saya ketahui, ramai antara pemancing yang menggunakan reel-reel yang canggih manggih yang mana drag setting maksimum yang telah disediakan oleh pembuat adalah di luar kemampuan/ketahanan pemancing itu sendiri. Dan terdapat juga pemancing yang menggunakan line (braided/mono) yang besar(poundage) dengan harapan untuk mengelakkan putus semasa menumpaskan gergasi lautan..kononya. Persoalannya, mampukah anda untuk menahan asakan gergasi lautan yang tidak diketahui saiznya ? Mungkin Reel & line anda mampu, bagaimana dengan Rod anda. Mampukah ia ?
Saya utamakan rod dalam menentukan kekuatan drag yang ingin disetkan pada reel adalah kerana keupayaan rod adalah terbatas. Terdapat pembuat yang telah menetapkan tahap ketahan drag bagi rod-rod yang telah mereka keluarkan. Ianya telah diuji sebelum dipasarkan. Jadi alangkah baiknya kita ikut spesifikasi yang telah ditetapkan oleh pembuat ataupun kurang sedikit dari yang telah ditetapkan oleh pembuat. Ini kerana keupayaan rod menahan drag mengikut sudut perlawanan samada 30deg@45deg@90deg adalah berlainan. Ini tidak terkecuali terhadap jenama-jenama rod yang hebat seperti Fisherman, Smith, Carpenter dll. Semuanya mempunyai tahap maksimum tersendiri dalam menentukan ketahanan menahan drag.
Sebagai contoh : anda menggunakan Stella18000 + Carpenter PE8 dan bertarung dengan mangsa 30kg. Sedia maklum Stella18000 mempunyai drag hampir 25kg. Apakah tahap sesuai untuk menentukan setting drag anda. Takkan anda nak setkan drag sehingga 20kg. kalau anda mampu sekalipun, mampukah CarpenterPE8 untuk menahan drag setting tersebut ? Bagi saya CarpenterPE8 tu boleh patah tiga. Ini kerana anggaran bagi drag setting CarpenterPE8 pada 30deg=12kg, 45deg=10kg & 90deg=6kg. Kalau anda setkan drag pada 15kg pun rod tersebut boleh patah. Untuk situasi ini, drag setting yang saya rekomenkan adalah dalam lingkungan 8kg sahaja. Ini pun boleh patah pinggang di buatnya. Bagaimana dengan ikan 30kg tersebut ? Sebenarnya, tak perlu dikhuatirkan sangat dengan ikan besar ini. Ini kerana kalau ia nak pecut bawa tali sampai habis sekalipun tak apa. Ini bermaksud kita memang tak berupaya untuk menahan lariannya walaupun drag telah di setkan pada setting yang sesuai. Lebih baik hilang line dari patah rod. Line boleh reload, rod nak sambung macam mana ? Biarkan ikan tersebut memecut dahulu, ianya pasti akan berhenti untuk mengumpulkan semula tenaga. Ini lah masa yang perlu di manfaatkan oleh pemancing bagi memalingkan muka ikan tersebut ke arah pemancing dan membuat pump+karauan sedikit demi sedikit. Jika ia lari lagi, biarkan sehingga ianya berhenti semula & ulang pump+karauan. Ikan yang lari dengan membawa beban drag yang telah kita tetapkan tadi, walaupun bersaiz 30kg++ akan penat/letih. Jadi inilah peluang kita untuk mendaratkan ikan tersebut iaitu dengan meletihkan ikan, bukan set drag ke tahap maksimum.
Jangan sesekali tambahkan drag dari yang telah ditetapkan semasa perlawanan bagi menghentikan larian ikan. Ini adalah kesilapan biasa pemancing(termasuk saya) kerana telah huru-hara dikerjakan dek larian pantas ikan yang seolah-olah tak nak berhenti & menyebabkan line di spool hampir habis. Pada masa ini lah biasanya pemancing baru tahu akan tahap kemampuan rod mereka. Reel dah hebat, line dah kuat & shock leader dah bagus tapi dah terlambat sebab rod 1pc dan jadi 3pc. Ini yang selalu terjadi di depan mata saya sendiri bagi pemancing-pemancing hebat tetapi tidak mengetahui secara terperinci tentang ketahanan rod mereka. Terpaksalah jadi penonton je lepas tu...
Bagi saya yang mempunyai saiz badan boleh kata kurus keding (tinggi=168cm, berat=55kg) ni, set drag yang ideal adalah dalam lingkungan 6kg~7kg walaupun pakai Stella20000@Dogfight sekalipun. Itulah kemampuan yang saya dapat tahan dengan fizikal ketinggian 168cm & berat 55kg. Kalau lebih set takut saya jatuh ke laut lak tarik dek ikan. Maklumlah sayang reel+rod kononya, nyawa tak sayang lak.
Sebab itu saya katakan tadi, ketahui tahap kemampuan rod kita dahulu baru boleh setkan drag ke tahap ketahanan badan yang kita mampu. Jangan menyeksa diri sendiri.
Saya tidak ada drag checker, macam mana nak setting drag ?
Bagi diri saya, saya menggunakan penimbang biasa. Caranya setupkan reel & rod anda seperti anda akan bertarung sebentar lagi macam dalam gambar kat bawah ni.
This measurement helps you understand how much deflection the rod will have for the amount of given force.
How to measure
1. Set the tackle. Then fix the tip of the line.
2. Install the anti-deflection wire on the main body.
3. Set the drag checker at this position.
4. Bend the rod to the desired deflection to measure.
5. Check the measurement value.
* Be aware that the values change depending on the angle of the rod. When you measure the drag by fixing the drag checker on the line from the rod, the measurement value will differ from the measurement in front of the reel. Be sure to make comparisons.
Info for Malaysian Anglers base on my experiences and my mate experiences during fishing with me.
Sedikit penerangan mengenai kefahaman saya dalam menentukan drag setting bagi peralatan-peralatan sedia ada saya. Yang UTAMA sekali, saya perlu untuk mengetahui kemampuan Rod. Kenapa Rod yang paling saya utamakan, kenapa tidak reel@line ?
Seperti yang saya ketahui, ramai antara pemancing yang menggunakan reel-reel yang canggih manggih yang mana drag setting maksimum yang telah disediakan oleh pembuat adalah di luar kemampuan/ketahanan pemancing itu sendiri. Dan terdapat juga pemancing yang menggunakan line (braided/mono) yang besar(poundage) dengan harapan untuk mengelakkan putus semasa menumpaskan gergasi lautan..kononya. Persoalannya, mampukah anda untuk menahan asakan gergasi lautan yang tidak diketahui saiznya ? Mungkin Reel & line anda mampu, bagaimana dengan Rod anda. Mampukah ia ?
Saya utamakan rod dalam menentukan kekuatan drag yang ingin disetkan pada reel adalah kerana keupayaan rod adalah terbatas. Terdapat pembuat yang telah menetapkan tahap ketahan drag bagi rod-rod yang telah mereka keluarkan. Ianya telah diuji sebelum dipasarkan. Jadi alangkah baiknya kita ikut spesifikasi yang telah ditetapkan oleh pembuat ataupun kurang sedikit dari yang telah ditetapkan oleh pembuat. Ini kerana keupayaan rod menahan drag mengikut sudut perlawanan samada 30deg@45deg@90deg adalah berlainan. Ini tidak terkecuali terhadap jenama-jenama rod yang hebat seperti Fisherman, Smith, Carpenter dll. Semuanya mempunyai tahap maksimum tersendiri dalam menentukan ketahanan menahan drag.
Sebagai contoh : anda menggunakan Stella18000 + Carpenter PE8 dan bertarung dengan mangsa 30kg. Sedia maklum Stella18000 mempunyai drag hampir 25kg. Apakah tahap sesuai untuk menentukan setting drag anda. Takkan anda nak setkan drag sehingga 20kg. kalau anda mampu sekalipun, mampukah CarpenterPE8 untuk menahan drag setting tersebut ? Bagi saya CarpenterPE8 tu boleh patah tiga. Ini kerana anggaran bagi drag setting CarpenterPE8 pada 30deg=12kg, 45deg=10kg & 90deg=6kg. Kalau anda setkan drag pada 15kg pun rod tersebut boleh patah. Untuk situasi ini, drag setting yang saya rekomenkan adalah dalam lingkungan 8kg sahaja. Ini pun boleh patah pinggang di buatnya. Bagaimana dengan ikan 30kg tersebut ? Sebenarnya, tak perlu dikhuatirkan sangat dengan ikan besar ini. Ini kerana kalau ia nak pecut bawa tali sampai habis sekalipun tak apa. Ini bermaksud kita memang tak berupaya untuk menahan lariannya walaupun drag telah di setkan pada setting yang sesuai. Lebih baik hilang line dari patah rod. Line boleh reload, rod nak sambung macam mana ? Biarkan ikan tersebut memecut dahulu, ianya pasti akan berhenti untuk mengumpulkan semula tenaga. Ini lah masa yang perlu di manfaatkan oleh pemancing bagi memalingkan muka ikan tersebut ke arah pemancing dan membuat pump+karauan sedikit demi sedikit. Jika ia lari lagi, biarkan sehingga ianya berhenti semula & ulang pump+karauan. Ikan yang lari dengan membawa beban drag yang telah kita tetapkan tadi, walaupun bersaiz 30kg++ akan penat/letih. Jadi inilah peluang kita untuk mendaratkan ikan tersebut iaitu dengan meletihkan ikan, bukan set drag ke tahap maksimum.
Jangan sesekali tambahkan drag dari yang telah ditetapkan semasa perlawanan bagi menghentikan larian ikan. Ini adalah kesilapan biasa pemancing(termasuk saya) kerana telah huru-hara dikerjakan dek larian pantas ikan yang seolah-olah tak nak berhenti & menyebabkan line di spool hampir habis. Pada masa ini lah biasanya pemancing baru tahu akan tahap kemampuan rod mereka. Reel dah hebat, line dah kuat & shock leader dah bagus tapi dah terlambat sebab rod 1pc dan jadi 3pc. Ini yang selalu terjadi di depan mata saya sendiri bagi pemancing-pemancing hebat tetapi tidak mengetahui secara terperinci tentang ketahanan rod mereka. Terpaksalah jadi penonton je lepas tu...
Bagi saya yang mempunyai saiz badan boleh kata kurus keding (tinggi=168cm, berat=55kg) ni, set drag yang ideal adalah dalam lingkungan 6kg~7kg walaupun pakai Stella20000@Dogfight sekalipun. Itulah kemampuan yang saya dapat tahan dengan fizikal ketinggian 168cm & berat 55kg. Kalau lebih set takut saya jatuh ke laut lak tarik dek ikan. Maklumlah sayang reel+rod kononya, nyawa tak sayang lak.
Sebab itu saya katakan tadi, ketahui tahap kemampuan rod kita dahulu baru boleh setkan drag ke tahap ketahanan badan yang kita mampu. Jangan menyeksa diri sendiri.
Saya tidak ada drag checker, macam mana nak setting drag ?
Bagi diri saya, saya menggunakan penimbang biasa. Caranya setupkan reel & rod anda seperti anda akan bertarung sebentar lagi macam dalam gambar kat bawah ni.
image from PLAT
1) Sambungkan line kepada penimbang dan minta kawan2 @ isteri2 @ anak2 (yg mana mampu) tolong pegangkan penimbang yang telah di sambungkan dengan line tadi lebih kurang 3 meter dari jarak anda yang sedang memegang rod sambil posing fighting.
2)Turunkan hujung rod selari dengan penimbang dan angkat perlahan-lahan rod sehingga mencapai anggaran sudut 30deg(bagi saya-takut rod patah).
3)Setkan sedikit demi sedikit reel drag anda dan ulang langkah no.2 serta baca bacaan pada penimbang sehingga mencapai tahap yang anda inginkan.Anda akan dapati jika drag set anda masih tidak mencapai tahap yang anda kehendaki, line akan keluar dari spool. Ulang langkah tersebut sehingga line anda keluar pada tahap yang minimum. Jika line anda hanya keluar pada kadar yang lebih pada bacaan penimbang & tahap yang anda kehendaki, bermakna drag set anda telah terlebih dan harus release sedikit sehingga mencapai yang anda kehendaki.
Selamat mencuba.
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