September 14, 2009

East Java - The Preparation

Fishing Point

The Boat of GT1
2 x 4 stroke 200HP Suzuki Engine
34.5ft length x 9.83ft width
35 knots top speed
load 1400litre fuel & 100litre freshwater
occupide with GPS, Fish Finder, Compass, Marine Radio, Life Jacket, Ring Buoy, Fire Extinguisher & Flare Gun

Itinerary of Expedition :-
Flight by AirAsia
Depature : October 16,09 : 1715
Return : October 22,09 : 1915
October 16,09 : 2000, Check in The Lokha Legian Hotel, Bali
October 17,09 : 0800, Heading to East Java, Popping & Jigging
October 17,09 : 1900, Check in Rest House, Puger
October 18,09 : 0800, Popping & Jigging
October 18,09 : 1900, Check in Rest House, Puger
October 19,09 : 0800, Popping & Jigging
October 19,09 : 1900, Check in Rest House, Puger
October 20,09 : 0800, Back to Bali, Popping & Jigging
October 20,09 : 1900, Check in The Lokha Legian Hotel, Bali
October 21,09 : Visiting Pak Adhek House & Lure Workshop
October 22,09 : 1915 Return back to Malaysia
Target : GT, AMJ, Ruby & Doggie
Set-up :
I think i would like to bring only 2 of Jigging & 2 of Popping Arsenal, but still didn't get any idea which one should i bring together...any sugestion...????
1) LGM SP78EXH + Stella SW10000XG + PE6 Avani GT (for chugger)
2) LGM SP80M + Stella SW10000XG + PE5 Avani GT (for chugger)
3) Gipang 83H + Stella SW10000XG + PE5 Avani GT (for stickbait)
1) EA Custom + Stella SW20000PG + PE6 Avani GT
2) Ocea Blue Rose + 665N + PE6 Jigger Trust
3) Poseidon SpinJerker + Stella SW8000PG + PE4 Jigger Trust
Popper (chugger & stickbait)
1) Adhek Bali (no need to bring la, get the new one from Pak Adhek)
2) Some Heru's : 120g~150g
3) Some FCLLABO : 90g~140g
4) Some Fisherman : 130g~160g
5) Some CraftBait : 150g
1) Some MgCraft Skill Jig-L : 320g, 380g
2) Some Andaman : 185g, 250g, 310g
3) Some Crazy Long Jig : 320g
4) Some Hooker : 380g

Special Session dedicated to Kelvin

Just check out at link below, prepared by bruce aka King of King

1) The Popping Rod Poison Session
2) The Poison Session Video

September 11, 2009

Shopping for Hari Raya Celebration!!!!

Just make some shopping for my coming Hari Raya, maybe will ask my mom masak for our special dishes on Pagi Raya... Can ar? Just can't wait the day...

Maybe she need to cook some sweet sour & some steam for this kinda fish.... akakakka, or maybe she aslo like to cook me for shopping all of this nearly to our Raya.....
my kids fun meal from left : FCLLABO
EBIPOP SC180F 50g, SquidPencil 160S 75g, CSP150 60g, TCP155F 50g. Just curious how much salt need to add to this meals...? Need to do reseach at some recipe books


The Bigger is for me.... from left :
SquidPencil 190S 130g, EBIPOP SC270F 140g

The black one is Heru Skipjack 150g

Heru's Skipjack/El-Gaviota
do not hesitate come to my house, for testing our special menu on Pagi Raya...

September 10, 2009

It's Coming Babe..... it's coming..

La Grande Mer : The Great Sea


Specification :
  • Length : 8ft (2445mm)
  • Build : 1 & Half (joint Butt)
  • Fit Line : PE6 ~ PE8
  • Lure Max : 190g
  • Drag Max : 10kg
  • Weight : 380g

Dimension :

  • Top Guide : MNST-16
  • Intermediate Guide : MNSG 16, 20, 25, 30, 40
  • Reel Seat : DPS-22 DL (DownLock)
  • End Cap : BRC-22
  • Front Grip Length : 255mm
  • Rear Grip Length : 430mm

September 08, 2009

NewBorn To Tame The Ferociuos Prey

Some Intro :

If we talk about popping, no seasoned anglers who has not ever heard of Carpenter Rods. No wonder, surely, we face the best rods on the market for the practice of these modalities.
Carpenter is a 100% Japanese factory, lead by Kenji Konishi which employed 17 workers, including those who do part-time to supply the Japanese market first and then across the world. The production as you can guess, are clearly inadequate for the demand. This is because, product made in their workshop are completely handmade, very few Japanese brands, in addition to Carpenter, can boast of that.

For this reason, it's rare that dealers have in stock rods, even the best shops in Japan. The few units that reach the stores are deplete quickly, so it is best to order the desired model for some months ahead. Some Japanese, aware of the difficulty in obtaining Carpenter Rods, buy them for auction on e-Bay at prices above the shops. It's happens similarly with the used rods. Rarely sold, and if that is that case, the process is so fast that almost no time to learn. Because of this peculiarity philosophy of production, is normal encounter cases of anglers who have spent nearly a year waiting to get their hands on a particular model of Carpenter Rod. I also manage to get this desire rod by waiting nearly a year with alot of patient and alot of beating heart.

Like another manufacturer, Carpenter classified it's rods by Series. Kenji Konishi, however, is a craftsman who designs each rod type depending on the species you want to capture. In another example of exquisite refinement Japan, choose lures that will best adapt to the characteristics of each rod.

For me, which mostly addict to Giant Trevally, of course will choose GT SERIES of the Carpenter Rod. In GT Series there are 6 categories to harass and beat the GT more bullies. For my second Carpenter Rod, i still pick it from LGM (La Grande Mer) Super Popping model. SP80M. Improved version of SP79M, design for chugger primarily but still can work with heavier stickbait either surface or sinking type. Rated at PE6-8 which just nice enough for my physical & strength. The other thing is the weight, just 380g, so not tiring me by popping for whole day.

Made from Carbon-intensive average elasticity, its blank provides a very precise feeling in the cast and adds a special nerve in the flight with the catch.

At launch, the applied force is transmitted faithfully to the rod, it bends gradually and without unnecessary vibrations to the lure, simply fly to the target. The same principle applies at the time of the sample, since any small action by the angles is transmitted faithfully to the lure.

When the fish is chopped and the party begins, all the blank shows resilience to raise the trophy, making this event a pleasant and easy exercise. Intermediate and experienced anglers, regardless of their physical, can enjoy catching large prey with the rod that transform all violent acts in smooth movements.

Will post my baby photos later.. very soon...

September 07, 2009

Guide to buy GT Rod

Awesome useful information by Brandon Khoo
One of the most common questions we get from GT anglers is what is the best rod? Well, the simple reality is there is no best rod. What can be said is there are many quality GT rods on the market but this is one form of fishing where getting the right rod is really critical.
So what constitutes the right rod? I would suggest that you need to ensure you get a rod that you can manage well both in terms of casting and fighting a fish. Like with any sport, getting equipment that fits you properly will permit you to use it to the best of your ability. Not doing that may see you unable to get the best out of the equipment.
I suppose I will point out up front that GT rods are all about compromise. A longer rods casts better but a shorter rod is better to fight a fish with. A very stiff rod works poppers well but hurts when you're fighting a fish. A soft tipped rod is good for stickbaits but not as good for poppers and so on.I'd suggest you consider the following when considering the acquisition of a rod:

� Are you looking for a specialised or general GT rod?
� What weight of lure do you want to use?
� How good a caster are you and how far will you need to cast where you are fishing?
� How heavy a rod do you need and what can you actually physically handle in terms of a GT rod?
� Manufacturers� idiosyncrasies
� The most important factor - your budget!
Do I want a Specialised or General Purpose GT Rod?
Not all GT rods are the same nor are they made for the same purpose. At opposite ends of the spectrum would be a light stickbait rod and a stiff heavy rod for huge cup-mouthed chuggers.
Stickbait rods are designed with a light and flexible tip to impart action to a surface stickbait. Currently, there are only two manufacturers that make specialised stickbait rods being Carpenter who was the pioneering company for stickbait rods and Ripple Fisher with the Blue Lagoon and Ultimo offerings respectively. Stickbaits come in both surface and sinking versions and it is really only on surface stickbaits that the specialised stickbait rods becomes necessary. I've said it before and I'll say it again you don't need a stickbait rod for Orion Bigfoots.
Currently, stickbait rods only come up to PE8 weight class (100lb). A stickbait rod needs to have a relatively soft tip and upper section of the blank but need not be progressive beyond that segment although both the current offerings from Carpenter and Ripple tend to be quite progressive.
Specialised heavy chugging rods are at the other end of the spectrum. These generally have a really firm tip which is necessary to work big cup-mouthed poppers. If the tip flexes too much, then the rod becomes inefficient as a heavy chugging tool. Heavy chugging rods are made by most manufacturers of GT rods and come in weight classes up to PE12 (170lb). Examples of specialised heavy chugging rods include Carpenter's SP78UHL, Fisherman's 77 R10L and Patriot Design's Fire Vortex (I am unsure of this model's current status as to whether it is still in production).
The rest of the GT rods I suppose I will describe as general purpose GT rods. I don't really like that term as it seems to infer they're ordinary (and many are anything but ordinary) but I can't think of a more appropriate term. General purposes rods are the most commonly made rods in the industry and are generally more progressive in action through the blank. These rods also tend to be more comfortable to fight a fish with and can be used for all types of lures. They're not really ideal for stickbaits but you will get by with them. As a chugging tool, they're not as efficient as a really stiff tipped specialised chugging rod but will do the job reasonably. Obviously, the bigger the popper, the more you get to the point of saturating the capacity of the rod to work the popper effectively.
I really don't think the manufacturers design these as general purpose rods. These rods are all designed to fish poppers but are simply built on a more progressive blank and to suit more anglers.
If you are only looking to acquire one rod, then I suggest that you should be looking for a general purpose rod that can fish a range of weights and line classes. On the other hand, if your budget is bigger and you are shopping for more rods, then you have the luxury of buying more specialised tools for the lures you want to use.
Weight and Size of Lures to be used
The weight and size of lures you want to use are a critical factor in deciding on the rod you want. Manufacturers all tend to provide guidance in terms of the casting weights of their rods. I strongly suggest you look around the mid-weight of what they claim. For example, if a rod is supposed to be for 150-250g poppers, then think about 200g as being ballpark in staying within the limits of the rod. There are rods out there that are claimed to cast 250g which are groaning under 200g (not to mention the angler!). Stay within the limits of your rod.
Many people want a very wide variance in terms of casting weights which is understandable. I can only say that if this is the case, a rod with a more progressive action will be more forgiving in this regard. An example is a Smith Komodo Dragon which will cast a 100g weight competently but I've used I Cups with it too. It's not happy but will let you get away with it. A Carpenter Wild Violence is also similar in that it can cast lighter lures better than its stable mate, the SP78UHL which is the same weight class but which is designed for huge cup mouthed poppers.
I suppose what I am trying to say is find a rod that suits the weights you want to cast.
How Good a Caster are you and how far do you need to cast?
This is a rather important question and where this becomes a factor is deciding on the length and action of the rod you buy. In general, a longer rod with a more progressive action will be easier to cast. This is excepting the small percentage of people who have a very casting fast action where they can load the faster action rods. Also, a lighter outfit will be easier to cast than a heavier outfit.
Getting good distance is all about matching your outfit properly in terms of the rod, line, lure weight and being able to load the rod effectively.
That said, at the end of the day, the length of the rod is king when it comes to casting distance. GT rods are all about a compromise. What I've always said is that I wish I had a rod that was the Carpenter Long Reef (8'6") when I am casting but which then magically turns into a Carpenter OH55XHS (5'6") when I hook up. Longer rods are great to cast with where as shorter rods are great to fight a fish with. Anyone who has tried to raise a big fish from under the boat with a long rod will know just how back-breaking that can be.
In general, I recommend you look for a rod that is 7'6" to 8' long. A shorter rod will not give you enough distance unless you're a superb caster and a longer rod is going to be difficult to handle when you're hooked up. I'd suggest that if you are a really good caster, look for a rod around 7'6" and if you're not as good a caster, work your way toward 8'. There are a couple of rods around the 8'2" length such as the Ripple Fisher 82LC which are manageable.
There are locations where you do require as much distance as you can get and in this event, you will have no choice but to go to the longer weapons such as Carpenter's Long Reef which is available up to nine feet in length.
The necessary casting distance is a critical factor. There is little more frustrating than finding yourself in the position where the ideal spot seems to be always just out of your reach or where your fishing companions are reaching a spot continuously before you can.
Getting long distance is not simply just about the rod , you can also match your gear and line accordingly. Obviously, PE6 Varivas with a small friction knot on a 130lb mono leader is going to cast a lot better than 130lb Jerry Brown hollow braid attached to a heavy assist cord leader. On the other hand, in a heavy reef strewn location, you will not extract a single fish with PE6. It's all a compromise.
How Heavy a Rod do you need and what can you actually handle?
The weight (as in line class the rod is designed to fish, not mass), needs to be determined by the terrain you're fishing and what you�re actually physically capable of handling.
It is pointless to buy a rod that is beyond your capacity to fish as your primary fishing tool. A rod that is beyond your capacity will simply break you when you're fighting a big fish and I would suggest that you're much better off taking your chances with an outfit you can fish to the limit than a really heavy outfit that you cannot fish to its capacity.
My general recommendation is to go for the lightest outfit you can get away with. I have on numerous occasions seen people fishing outfits which they just can't handle and which just break them when they're hooked onto a decent fish. Just remember that a heavy outfit will not land you a big fish , you need to be able to handle the outfit effectively to be able to land a big fish.
Big heavy outfits have their place but for me, they're a necessity in some locations rather than what I like to fish with. I generally opt for the lightest outfit I can get away with as it is simply more comfortable to fish long periods with. I can cast further, last longer and the fishing is more enjoyable.
Manufacturer's Idiosyncrasies
This is actually a more important factor than many people realise in getting themselves a rod that is right for them. Manufacturers are all different and one manufacturer�s PE12 rod does not necessarily accord with another. For example, a HOT Gipang 77XXH is rated as PE12 and so is a Carpenter SP78UHL. The SP78UHL, however, feels considerably stronger for the same rating and I would suggest to you that the Patriot Design Fire Vortex is stronger again.
A common idiosyncrasy is with regard to butt lengths. Nearly every manufacturer differs here but the butt length on a Shimano Caranx Kaibatsu is some five inches longer than the industry average.
Another is that some manufacturers like to place the reel seat in an up-winding position whereas others like it in a down-winding position.
One that is unique to the manufacturer is Patriot Design using the Fuji Low riders guides rather than the traditional Fuji super ocean guides (MNSG and ICMNSG).
Manufacturer warranties are another idiosyncrasy and vary wildly. Some offer no warranty whatsoever to the opposite end where Ripple Fisher in this country offer their equivalent of the G-Loomis Expediter program.
It pays to do your research and understand what suits you.
Your Budget
Probably the most important factor of all!
GT rods range in price from relatively reasonable to outrageous and I will make the comment that beyond a certain point, spending more does not necessarily mean you get a better rod.
At the budget end of the market, you get rods like the Shimano T-Curve GT Special and at the stratospheric end of the market, a Fisherman with cermet guides will see little change from $2500. That's why I always encourage people to take their time with their purchases and to do their research carefully. It's pretty painful to buy a rod and find out during its first trip that it doesn't suit you at all.
I'll provide a very brief run-down of the market and the brands.
At the entry end of the market, I'll start with the Shimano T-Curve GT Special. There are other rods available around this price range from various small producers but I have no experience with these.Coming back to the GT Special, I've seen this rod as low as below $400 although average retail price seems to be around the $500 mark these days. This is a very capable rod although it is relatively heavy in comparison to some of the premium offerings on the market. The Asian market also sees Shimano offering the Caranx Kaibatsu range of rods and they are also selling for around the $500 mark. This is a big range covering the full spectrum of weights for GT fishing. The Kaibatsus are also a capable rod but as stated earlier, have an unusually long butt length. Any decent rob builder will be able to shorten this easily. These rods will do the job competently.
Moving into the middle part of the market, you have the Daiwa Saltiga range although this really only comprises two rods in the PE8 category , the Muramura 76 and the GT86. These are generally around the $700 mark. Saltiga's are excellent rods and I've never quite understood why they have not produced a heavier GT rod in the range. The GT86 used to be a very popular rod for anglers acquiring their first GT rod. I've always been of the view it is a few inches too long.
A little upmarket from the Saltiga's sees the HOTs and Zenaqs and a new range from an established company (Ripple Fisher), Yamaga Blanks (not blanks though , only rods notwithstanding the name). These are all excellent rods and there is a wide range of rods covering the full gamut of weight classes. Prices will be around $750 to around $950. Yamaga currently only have two PE8 offerings but the range will be widened soon. It is my view that these rods are not in any way inferior to the next category up being premium rods but are priced at a lower level.
Beyond this sees you into the premium end of the market where you will find manufacturers like Smith, Carpenter, Ripple Fisher, Sevenseas, Patriot Design, Fisherman etc. These are all excellent rods that are well constructed and they should be at their prices! The prices also vary quite significantly for reasons which I cannot always understand myself as in general, the components are largely the same (excepting some of the more specialised components used by Fisherman). These rods range in price from below $1000 to over $2500 and at the prices of these rods, it really pays to have done your research as a poor buying decision may end up being a costly one.
Just remember that it is the tradesman and not the tool. The tool of course helps but a capable angler will land the same fish irrespective of whether he is using a $500 T-Curve or a $2,500 Fisherman.
I can't wait and I have to buy a rod , HELP ME!!!
If this is the position you find yourself in, then I probably won't be able to talk you into delaying your buying decision for at least one rod. That said, I really do need to emphasise that if you have the patience, it really pays to do at least a trip first before you rush out and start building up your rod collection. You will be in a much better position to know what you like and what suits you after a trip.
That said, most of you can't wait so if you fall into this category and need to rush out and buy a rod, then I suggest you should probably consider a general purpose rod. The main reason for this is you will almost certainly buy a rod you can handle this way. I have a few suggestions below but please note, these are only intended as examples and are rods that I have used personally. I am not in a position to recommend a rod I have not at least used myself and certainly,, I can't recommend a rod for you without having seen you fishing first. With the rods below though, I have identified rods that the vast majority of anglers will find comfortable to fish with and are rods that can handle both poppers and stickbaits. I still feel the need, however, to say that only the Coral Viper can be considered as decent for stickbaits.
Heavy rods (PE10) : if you need to find yourself a heavy rod to fish PE10 (130lb), an excellent all-rounder for you to consider would be the Smith Komodo Dragon. I have had two of these since their release and I think they are an excellent all round rod. Notwithstanding the manufacturer's recommended figures, I recommend you fish PE10 and lures weights from about 150 -200g. The Komodo will cast heavier and also lighter weights but I think the 150-200g is about ideal. It's a comfortable rod to fight a fish with although at 7'6", it won't be the longest casting rod you find. The only caveat I will make is that you should be sure you can handle a PE10 outfit first.
Mid-heavy rods (PE8-10) : in this weight class, I regard the Ripple Fisher GT79R as an excellent choice. The rod is very comfortable to fish with and while PE10 is pushing it, will handle that weight class with a bit of sensibility on the part of the angler. Casting weights from about 120-160g is about ideal for this rod although it will handle slightly heavier and lighter weights. This rod will pretty much suit anyone fishing for GTs. In fact, I would probably go so far as to say that if you can't handle this rod, you really should be spending more time in the gym first before you go fishing for GTs
Mid weight rods (PE8) : in this weight class, the Carpenter Coral Viper CV79 RF40 is highly recommended - if you can find one. This truly is a personal favourite and is also a favourite of my good friend, Malcolm Crane who is an excellent GT angler. We've found the rod plenty strong enough and both our CVs have knocked over enough respectable fish in the 40-45kg category for us to know they can handle big fish. I love this rod as it is so comfortable to fish with and I've actually fish PE10 pretty hard with it although that is not recommended. This rod is ideal for poppers in the 100-140g range as well as stickbaits from 100-160g.
So who do I buy my rod from?
This is something only you can decide. I do have some strong views on local tackle stores and these vary from one end of the spectrum to the other. Excepting a very small number of stores, I think it is hard to get good advice on this form of fishing. I have been in numerous stores where the salesperson is really spinning a yarn and I'm probably not quite the right person to try to have on!
On the other hand, a store which is prepared to stock a good range of gear and which will go to the effort of arranging for you to cast a range of rods and pop some lures with those rods is serious about their business and in assisting you to get the right rod. Quite frankly, if they go to this effort, they deserve your business. They are also likely to stand behind you in the event of an inexplicable breakage which may be the difference between you getting a replacement or not. If you do get the opportunity to test the rod casting, do one additional tests and that is take your gimbal belt and feel what the rod is like in the gimbal while loaded up. This will give you a good idea on whether the butt is of a suitable length for you and whether you can handle the rod under heavy load.
Coming back to the rods, you of course have the option of buying from abroad which may save you some money but I think this needs to be balanced against the above. As I wrote, only you can make that decision.
So there we are! I hope that the information above will at least prove to be useful in assisting you in buying your first or next GT rod. I have, however, really only scratched the surface in terms of information on rods.