Popping

Popping Guide ~ by luke wyrsta

A buckled over rod pumping out 20kg of drag is a sight that needs to be seen to be believed. Accompanied by the high-pitched hum of braid rocketing through the guides, coupled with sweat and sheer determination, this is what heavy popping is all about.

Popping the reef edges and steep drop-off zones is where the bad boys come out to play. The fish encountered here literally blow smoke in your face. They’re big, mean and they live to destroy your popper.

The purpose of this article is to give you a general introduction on the tackle, techniques and some locations involved in heavy popping. Do you want to triumph over some colossal customers that would eat Dirty Harry for breakfast? Read on…

Reels
A quality high-speed threadline that is capable of high drag settings and able to hold at least 250 metres of 50lb GSP braid is mandatory for heavy popping. A lower geared threadline is also acceptable but can require a lot more effort and work from the angler.

Reels such as the Shimano Spheros, Penn Spinfisher and Daiwa Saltiga Blast provide choice for anglers on a budget. The addition of aftermarket upgrades (such as Carbontex drag washers) is highly recommended.

At the higher end of the market, the Shimano Stella, Daiwa Saltiga and Dogfight and the Accurate Twinspin rule supreme. Tough as nails, these reels have been purpose-built for applications such as heavy popping. Sporting quality drags that can produce 20kg plus of gut-wrenching drag straight out of the box and regularly locked up to the point where other reels would wet themselves, you can really see why they can leave a rather big hole in your pocket!

If you invest in a reel like this, make sure you buy an extra spool to fill with more braid; you never know when you may have to up the odds with a heavier line class or recover from a spooling.

Rods
Extreme forces and pressures mean that rods must be capable of virtually ‘bending over backwards’ with drag settings that would rip the arms off an average angler. With grunt in the butt to pull a tractor but enough action in the tip to impart action on a pencil popper, specialist popper rods define the term ‘cutting-edge’.

Many of these specialised rods are coming from the Japanese market and can be upwards of $1000. Light, robust and hand-crafted like a piece of art, they feel more like a perfectly balanced Samurai sword than a fishing rod! And just as deadly too! If you are willing to part with the cash, rods from the likes of Fisherman, Carpenter, Seven Seas & Zenaq all have models specifically designed with the heavy popping angler in mind.

The Shimano T-Curve Bluewater spin rod or one of the Daiwa Saltiga models provides a good off-the-rack option for those looking to kick-start their heavy popping account. This rod is ideal for 50lb tackle and can knock over some serious fish. Any desire to go heavier will require a custom rod or one of the Japanese rods already mentioned.

With heavy popping popularity now on the increase, many rod builders have recipes for some lethal popping rods. Quality blanks up to the job are coming from the likes of Calstar & GUSA. My personal rod of choice has been built on a Calstar blank that is capable of handling 100-130lb braid, I find it much more comfortable to use and preferable to Japanese models that I have used in the past. Discuss options with your preferred rod builder or ask a tackle shop for more information.

With all that being said, we can’t forget old favourites such as beefy Ugly Stiks. Such rods are more than capable of knocking over reasonable fish, however, don’t expect them to last for too much longer under heavy popping stress!

Mainline
A mainline of 50-80lb GSP is preferred for most popping anglers. These line classes are recommended to help achieve maximum casting distance whilst also providing enough grunt to apply significant pressure on a fish.

An increasing number of anglers have progressed beyond 80lb up to classes as heavy as 130lb. These line classes provide more room for the angler to apply maximum pressure and increased diameter for extra abrasion resistance. The potential to subdue a fish much quicker and to help ensure a faster and safer return to the water are additional advantages. Be warned, these line classes are not for the faint hearted: if you are not prepared for the strike or do not have your technique correct, you could be going for a swim!

Tried and tested brands such as Power Pro and Tuf Line XP are cost-effective and reliable choices. Japanese braids such as Daiwa Hyper Sensor, YGK Jig Man and Varivas Avani GT are also very good but considerably more expensive.

Leader
A nylon or fluorocarbon leader of between 2 – 5 metres in length is necessary for heavy popping. A shorter leader is usually used to keep the connection between the mainline and leader outside the rod tip. This helps eliminate the connection itself from becoming wrapped and snagged on the guides. A longer leader is used to help add more shock absorption (helps combat shock-load and to minimise hook pulls) and for increased abrasion resistance around the reef zone.

Tried and tested brands include Suffix, Moimoi and YGK. A minimum of 100-150lb breaking strain is required for lighter mainline classes and between 150-300lb is common for heavier classes.

Twisted leaders can be very useful in heavy popping, however, they are beyond the scope of this article. Further information can be found on the internet.

Knots & Connections
The ability to tie an array of knots with confidence and speed is essential, you will simply waste your time and money if you can’t. Leaders and connections should be prepared prior to hitting the water. Tying a double at the end of the mainline is necessary to attach the leader. In my opinion, the best way to form this double is through the use of a 70-turn (minimum) Bimini Twist, however, if you want to steer clear of doubles, tying a Midknot to attach the leader is the next preference. I prefer a smaller double (no more than a few inches) in order to help minimise hang-ups and snagging on the rod guides. To complete the connection, I use the Bristol or ‘No-name’ knot. Very quick and easy to tie, this knot is best used when casting with a leader that is outside the rod tip. Alternatively, you can use an Albright knot. The next part of the equation is connecting the leader to the swivel or solid ring. My favourite and most reliable knot for this purpose is the four-turn uni knot. Make sure you lubricate adequately and pull the knot as tight as you can with the aid of pliers. Stiffer and harder leader material may require the use of a heavy duty crimp in place of a knot. You can search the internet for details on how to tie these knots or stuffy one of Geoff Wilson’s excellent knot books.

Terminal Hardware
Heavy popping can be merciless on tackle. Warped trebles and opened split-rings are more than possible so it pays not to compromise. Factory fitted trebles and split-rings are usually inferior and should be abandoned immediately if you want to achieve success in this big fish arena. Split rings & solid rings should be high quality brands such as Owner, Decoy and Fisherman. Lighter & heavier line classes should use at minimum 200lb and 300lb respectively. Trebles should be high quality brands such as Owner, Decoy, Gamakatsu and Fisherman. Treble size will depend on size of lure and tackle setup being used. Minimum treble sizes are 5/0 – 6/0, while heavier setups using bigger lures and generally targeting bigger fish using 6/0 – 10/0 trebles. Crush or file down the barbs on these hooks to avoid damage to fish and angler and secondly, to help speed up the release process. Hooks should always be kept sharp to ensure best penetration. Swivels should be high quality brands such as Owner, Decoy and Fisherman. I have also found Wilson to manufacture very good and reliable swivels. Breaking strains are the same for split ring and solid ring recommendations.

Techniques
There are three styles of retrieve technique that are effective for heavy popping:

Chugging & Blooping :
Involves working the popper to create a big and visible surface commotion with long pauses in between. Leaving the popper stationary for a few seconds or winding very slowly until the next ‘bloop’ or ‘chug’ is up to angler preference. This style is best achieved by moving the rod from a forward position (in front of you) and then jerking back towards your body, or, by placing the rod in a forward horizontal position then giving a big jerk to the appropriate side. Effective in all sea conditions.

Flat-out :
Involves working the popper quickly to imitate a fleeing and frightened baitfish. This style is best achieved by positioning your rod in a forward position, holding the rod tip high and cranking as quickly as possible. Add some up and down movement with your rod-holding hand with some occasional pauses thrown in. Deadly and effective. If you can see a big fish shadowing, slow down! This style works best in low swell and wind conditions.

Mix It Up :
This style involves a combination of both styles described above. Seems to be the solution when fishing is quiet.

Poppers
Big solid poppers with a deep-cupped face are great for heavy popping in all conditions (especially heavy swell). Length should be at least 15-20cm and weigh at least 120g with terminals. Used to create big and almost violent displacements of water, it is sure to be a magnet for any big predator. Effective with ‘chugging & blooping’ retrieval technique. Long and slender poppers known as pencil poppers are great for heavy popping in calmer conditions (but can be used in all). Length should be at least 20-25cm and weigh at least 120g with terminals. Used to create continuous foaming wakes of water, this popper is best used with a flat-out retrieval technique. Stickbaits are also popular, although they are not really a popper. Stickbaits are very similar to pencil poppers however they lack a cupped face and are generally shorter. Much easier to work than other poppers, stickbaits jerk and twist erratically upon retrieval. Best used in calmer conditions popper with a flat-out retrieval technique with short pauses and jerks thrown in for variety.

Hook Selections
Just about any lure you buy in a domestic tackle shop comes standard with hardware, i.e. split rings and treble hooks. If you haven't already noticed, these are usually soft, poor quality components which in the GT popping arena - are a cardinal sin if you do not replace. Retrofitting your GT lures with new quality hardware is something that must never be overlooked.

Trebles vs. Singles
In recent times, there has been a surge in the popularity of using single hooks for GT lures. Why use single hooks? For those that have been experimenting with single hooks, there seems to be several advantages that exist over treble hooks.

• Higher fight retention rate than trebles (hook remaining in the fish's mouth during the fight)
• Less damage caused to fish
• Do not warped/bend like trebles
• Cheaper than trebles
• Lighter than trebles

Now for some disadvantages:

• Hook-up retention rates lower than trebles (singles are often missed more at strike than trebles)
• Do not work as well when lure retrieve is not constant
  

In the scheme of things, using single hooks in GT popping is relatively new, and only time will tell if the above advantages and disadvantages are actually deserved. In case any of you were curious, no - don't throw out all your treble hooks! - both should be permanent mainstays in your tackle arsenal.

So what are the advantages and disadvantages of trebles? Lets look at the advantages first:

• Hook-up retention rates higher than singles (more hook-ups than singles when a fish strikes)
• Work well with any retrieve

Now for some disadvantages:

• Lower fight retention rate than singles (hook remaining in the fish's mouth during the fight)
• Can cause significant damage to fish (also angler)
• Can warp and bend under heavy pressure and unusual angles
• More expensive than singles
• Heavier than singles

In summary, a majority of anglers are sticking to trebles, however, there are other anglers out there experimenting with singles particularly on stickbaits, and even some who choose to use combinations.


What Types of Singles & Trebles Do I Choose?
Preferred trebles usually have a heavy gauge with a gape big enough to accommodate the large jaws of a GT. Choosing a treble that doesn't have these characteristics usually results in a warped, deformed treble and a lost fish! Choosing a hook with a gape that is too small will result in pressure being applied further away from the shank and outside the hook's gape.

Preferred brands of trebles include (in order of the author's preference): Gamakatsu Recorder, Decoy GT Special, Fisherman KG120, Owner ST-77 & Owner ST-66.

Preferred singles usually have a heavy gauge with a gape big enough to accommodate the large jaws of a GT - they have a better fight retention rate than trebles because pressure is being applied from the one direction and angle. Many of these hooks are used heavily in jigging.

Preferred brands of singles include (in order of the author's preference): Decoy Jigging Sergeant 2 (JS-2), Owner Jobu, Owner SJ-51.

Remember, crush or file down the barb on your hooks when popping for GTs. This help to minimise damage to fish and angler alike.


What Sizes Do I Use?
The minimum treble hook size used when popping for big GTs is usually a 5/0 (even this is considered small). GT trebles are made in sizes from 5/0 to 10/0. It is generally better to match the hook to the size and type of lure you want to use. You can compromise a lures balance and action by using hooks that are too heavy/light. When you are chasing really big fish then it is better to use a bigger hook size (obviously matched to the appropriate lure). As a guide, the author usually uses 6/0 trebles on large stickbaits and 6/0 to 8/0 trebles on poppers, bloopers and chuggers.

The minimum single hook size used when popping for big GTs is usually a 6/0 (even this is considered small). Accepted GT singles are made (they are usually purpose built jig hooks) in sizes from 6/0 to 12/0. It is generally better to match the hook to the size and type of lure you want to use. You can compromise a lures balance and action by using hooks that are too heavy/light. When you are chasing really big fish then it is better to use a bigger hook size (obviously matched to the appropriate lure). As a guide, the author usually uses 8/0 singles on large stickbaits and 8/0 to 12/0 singles on poppers, bloopers and chuggers.


Other Things to Consider
Make sure you use appropriate split rings to attach hooks to your lures. These should be a heavy wire construction, minimum of 300lb breaking strain.

Preferred brands of split rings include (in order of the author's preference): Fisherman, Varivas, Decoy, Owner.

Assist cords/loops made of hollow Dyneema/Kevlar and even Zylon can be used to attach trebles and singles. Length is very much a personal choice but be conscious not to have them too long as this is likely to cause unnecessary injury to the fish. Make these assist cords/loops out of the strongest breaking strain you can obtain - as a guide the author doesn't use anything weaker than 300lbs.


Hints & Tips

• Heavy popping is physically demanding - so get fit.
• 3-5 aggressive rod thrusts after the hook-up will help drive home barbless hooks.
• Practice your cast – being able to cast 60 metres is a bare minimum (the further, the better).
• Go easy on drag settings until you know your capabilities – only the sharks want you to go for a swim!
• Get some lightweight gloves suitable for handling GSP braid (some are marketed as ‘spectra resistant’).
• Use a gimble or special padded rod belt.
• Expect to catch trevally species, mackerel, cods & groupers, tunas, barracuda, jobfish, red bass and other species that call tropical reefs their home.